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Everything posted by theksmith

  1. @jgaz - did you have to assist with any rescues related to this?
  2. article here: https://www.yahoo.com/news/why-hundreds-grand-canyon-tourists-180339241.html
  3. "Stellantis is recalling nearly 140,000 Jeep and Ram models equipped with its 3.0-liter EcoDiesel six-cylinder to address potential high-pressure fuel pump failures that can render vehicles undrivable." More info here: https://autos.yahoo.com/jeep-ram-ecodiesels-recalled-fuel-143500407.html
  4. the driver side slider got a last coat of paint and i finished up all the welding for the passenger side. Gadget looked like a predator this morning - hiding in her burrow, watching and waiting to pounce!
  5. that was my first idea too (the kind in the regular caulking tube)! mainly because i was thinking it might be more elastic. but, i already had some glazing putty on hand so i went with that
  6. sure i could have, but i originally only welded the bottom for the entire length and then thought stitch-welding the top edges would be sufficient (andt it should be structurally). since it was already painted before i decided that i didn't like that look, it was just quicker and easier to use filler than sand it back to bare metal to weld... however i've been advised by someone more experienced in this area that my application is in fact too thick for that glazing putty and it will probably crack out quickly. so i may be welding it all soon after all!
  7. still working on finalizing this project... i drilled new holes in the Evo shock relocation brackets so they could mount a little lower and also changed out my homegrown 4.5" bump stop extensions for new 4" ones. i had to flip the upper trackbar bolt as it was hitting the new extension on the passenger side. the new setup worked out just right as far as not bottoming out the shocks and i'm happy with the balance of clearance, up-travel, and droop. i think my final issues are just with the sway-bar & links. the link on the driver's side now contacts the brake caliper on full droop. i also realized that i was wrong about whether the sway-bar was in danger of ever inverting - it could in fact flip over if the axle fully droops. i had only checked before with one side at a time down (under full articulation). i bought some JKS 2943 Rear Adjustable Swaybar End Links, but haven't installed them yet. i think adjusting them to just a bit longer than the current links will solve those issues and still clear the tire sidewall.
  8. i thought i had the drivers side finished, but i didn't really like the look of the raw stitch welds... so i'm smoothing it over with spot/glazing putty, hopefully it doesn't all just pop-out on the first hard hit. and finally getting started on the passenger side today...
  9. FYI, this page lists current restrictions for Coconino NF, Apache-Sitegreaves NF and Coconino County: https://www.coconino.az.gov/2595/Fire-Restriction-Information
  10. https://www.nps.gov/yell/learn/news/220613.htm more photos here: https://www.eastidahonews.com/2022/06/gallery-here-are-the-latest-flood-photos-from-yellowstone-park/
  11. my modified one is 42.5lbs, which i think is a net increase of about 8lbs (per side). i try to be mindful of the pounds when choosing most accessories, but i've always felt the weight of heavy-duty steel skidplates and rock-rails was a necessary evil if doing much rock crawling.
  12. made good progress on Sunday, almost done with the driver's side. hopefully the other side goes faster! 1/8" was the thickest i could get the 1.5" x 1" tube in, so i added a piece of 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" on the bottom-outside edge to double it up where it will get the most abuse.
  13. thanks guys! yes, ditching the round hoop in favor of rectangular tube welded right up against the main strip. those old hoops were bent up pretty bad - and being so wide, they seemed to always drag really hard when rock crawling and getting even slightly off-camber on ledge obstacles. the new steel sits higher and doesn't protrude out as far. i'm also adding a third mounting "leg" to tie into the Jeep's frame to hopefully prevent bending the whole contraption in the middle any further. if i had to do it over, i'd seriously consider the body mounted sliders from JCR or Motobilt. they give you a fair bit more clearance, but seem beefy enough to not cave in the Jeep's sheet-metal on a hard hit. they are $1k+ though, versus $150 in materials to fix-up the ones i already have.
  14. didn't get very far today because #1 i got overheated out in the sun early on, so i came back inside till the driveway was in the shade - AZ summer-time yay! and #2 even the main part of this driver-side slider was bent, not just the hoop, so i had to weld just a little then pull it and the new metal together/flat with C-clamps and repeat several times.
  15. @Yodamom, @Ladybug, @K2man56, @Eugene, @Stacey and Scott, @KtroubleA - ya'll aren't all gonna let "Team Money Pit" win by default are you?! Who else has the cajones?
  16. someone on eBay was selling a used Teraflex tire carrier (only the mount part), so now Fiona just needs the hinge/tailgate-support part. one of B's good friends got him a set of Mopar rubber floor mats for his birthday. the hard-top was our early birthday present to him, but since we got such a good deal on that we also had Fiona tinted this week. we used Tint 360 again since they did a great job on our WK2.
  17. the solar panel hood is done well, and it has real offroad tires at least!
  18. thanks! just getting her in better shape to tackle the Dusy... now you better get those fingers crossed to get your axle in time
  19. you're only as old as you act G!
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