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ob1jeeper

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Everything posted by ob1jeeper

  1. Well said Jim, There is not a single large-scale professional car-hauling company that I am aware of, which uses crossed tie downs... Must be at lease one good reason for that... ;)
  2. Kris, Just a clarification... From a compressive strength standpoint, wood is a fine material for a vehicle support, provided (just like steel jack stands) it has a sufficiently wide base to help prevent it from tipping, should side loading be encountered. I have several wood blocks, which I utilize for vehicle support, copied from the ones we used @ work.
  3. Kris, The angled tongue pieces are the removable lateral stabilizers for the main portion of the tongue (the large square tube to which the coupler is welded). The main tube lays fore-aft, and inserts into a similar tube of sufficient size to allow the tongue to be moved fore/aft to alter the length of the tongue. The hidden/large tube is welded into the frame crossmembers under the decking. While only a fraction of trailer's in use, utilize this type of tongue construction, the use of this layout, is intended to both allow for adjustable tongue lengths, as well as to allow total tongue removal for compactness of storage if desired/necessary. Not to mention becoming a pretty effective means to slow thieves down. Perhaps the largest downside to the removal is that the removable tongue piece weighs right at 145-150 lbs, making it a huge chore to do by one's self. Luckily, I had a small tractor with a set of forks to assist when I removed it for painting and length re-adjustment. Hi Jim, As you surmised by the pics, I am indeed a bit of a rookie with trailers and the loading of same... ;)
  4. Loading the TR this morning Tied down for the trip home to Wickenburg, then on to Detroit next month
  5. When I towed this new-to-me trailer home from the sellers house I experienced a few strong gusts of side-wind trying to push the empty trailer around, causing some mild "tail-wiggle". After some measuring and calculations, I found that the trailer tongue was a bit on the short-ish side for a trailer of this size & shape. The good news is that It was designed by the mfg. as an adjustable length tongue which could even be removed if desired for space considerations such as storage, etc.. So, I did as much of a stretch as safe & practical (approx. 10"), as I would have had to make a whole new tongue to go longer. Then I fabbed up some brackets for also adding a friction-type sway stabilizer. The large red bracket you see at the truck hitch is a 20K rated unit mfg.'d by "Shocker Hitch" out of ND. It is a cushioned hitch using an air-inflated spring (which is hidden from view under the hitch receiver), similar to air ride springs for handling larger loads in PU's etc. I have another of their units on another trailer which made it pull SO much smoother (ridding it of the jerkiness so prevalent in larger trailers with stiff tires and suspension, particularly when empty of lightly loaded). I decided to try it for this trailer as well, but instead of buying the unit that welds to the trailer, for this one, I bought the type that simply inserts into the receiver. These things help a bunch in how smoothly it pulls, especially on segmented concrete surfaces, (AKA: most freeways). For the hitch mount, rather than welding it to the shocker hitch, I decided to fab a "dual-mount" that attaches/clamps in place with the hitch ball, in the event I found the need for a 2nd sway control brake, or needed further mods. For the aft end of the anti-sway mount, I simply cut a piece of 1/2" stock and welded it to the right tongue strut, which bolt-clamps to the main portion of the tongue. Tomorrow is a first for me to be towing it with a vehicle inside, as I have a '59 Triumph TR-3 to collect from a storage locker in Peoria, AZ for a friend (Dave L.) from Ontario, Canada. Next month, I'll be taking it as far as Detroit, for him. Dave, was a long-time friend of Mike & Marianne Smith's, and someone I met & knew through Mike & working @ Chrysler. My final act today was to add a few reflective strips for night-time vision improvements... Still-to-Do list: 1- Pulling the hubs for brake, bearing, and seal inspections & buying a few spare bearings and seals to put in the travel kit. 2- finish organizing the stored "stuff" (tools, etc.) 3- Sewing up a set of curtains to further block the sun-light (and prying eyes) for the heavily tinted side windows. 4- Finish touch-up painting to recent mods.
  6. Thanks Jim, The trailer came to me with the compressor bolted down in this location. For now I'm going to leave it, but it will most likely get moved... Thanks Kris
  7. Have been tinkering with the new-to-me trailer getting it set up to suit my needs/tastes. Below are a few items I've been futzing with... In order to enable loading of "dead" vehicles, and for those instances when it's safer to load, I added a receiver to provide for an ATV winch that I've had for many years and used on my other trailers. Not visible is the "loops" that were apart of this trailer, which I elected to use rather than drilling additional holes to mount the receiver. This is the mobile ATV winch I've had for many years and used on my open -car-hauler trailers. It has; both a winch mounted switch and a wireless remote, which makes for safer and simple loading, and quick-connect load wiring. For the load wiring, I modified a set of HD jumper cables with these quick-connects, so I don't have to carry both jumper cables, AND a separate set or a "20-odd ft coil" of load wiring for the trailer winch. It is located at the front of the trailer, to the right and below the "house" battery, and directly below the "house" electrical box, and is attached with no extra holes drilled into the trailer, as it has several "loop" welded to multiple locations already available. You can just glimpse on of the loops peeking out from behind the receiver mount plate. I recently replaced the original steel winch line with synthetic. The house battery was DOA when I got the trailer, whose battery mount was sized specifically for it. Since I had on-hand a spare RV battery of a slightly larger size, rather than purchasing a new battery, I welded up an adapter that allows the new battery to sit directly on top of the original battery bracket. It is shown sitting statically in place, but a proper tie-down is in the works. When it fails, it will be replaced with sealed AGM marine battery. Pic of the interior front-end. The large dark panel, is a folding workbench top that folds up and latches out of the way for travel and ease of loading the heavier objects (such as the generators, which are not yet secured for travel), but I'm futzing with that as well... ;) Pic looking towards the rear/right side interior. And left side of the trailer. The air compressor and the two 4ft lighting units are 120VAC, while the other lights are 12VDC, using the "house" battery. It has more storage overhead than I believe I will ever need, but it was equipped like this when I bought it.
  8. Well Done. SO glad to hear "B" was un-harmed... 😇 🤙
  9. The BEST news is that Brady was uninjured. the tin can be replaced... ;)
  10. Thanks for the kind words. Just did not wish to have whatever I hauled to be coming loose... ;)
  11. Finally bit the bullet and found an enclosed car-hauler to haul the dune buggy, etc., as I got tired of arriving at the dunes to find the seats covered with dust (or worse yet covered with rain-water). The trailer came with 4 tie-downs installed, but not in the locations that are good for the buggy and other locations I prefer to use when hauling vehicles. So today I fabricated some bolt-in plates that secure the new tie-downs in locations I wanted, and also anchor to the frame. FWIW: It is never a good thing to use only the decking to anchor tie-downs, as the decking is typically only secured with self-tapping screws. Frame anchors Checking fitment Bolted in place. I added a coating of roofing tar to the mating surfaces (both the frame AND the decking) to seal against water intrusion that could be damaging to the plywood decking. Finished with a coat of rustoleum
  12. Thanks for sharing the pics Mike. Love the ruins and the petroglyphs there... ;)
  13. ALWAYS good to have backup assistance in the shop... ;) Well done Brynna... ;)
  14. I did not know you were raising chickens in addition to upgrading your new ride... Well done indeed... ;)
  15. Karen & I just returned from 4 days of Snowmobiling fun with family & friends in and around Yellowstone NP. It's a GREAT way to see Yellowstone without the crowds... ;) Near one of the views of smaller geysers and "mud-pots" The Grand falls of the Yellowstone Canyon in the background - This is the lower falls (380 ft tall) Oddly enough THE MOST snow we had on the drive in either direction ! ! ! Photo taken on the way home Sunday morning - in Peeples Valley, AZ ! ! ! Who Knew or could have predicted ? ? ?
  16. Though not totally off-road focussed. thought you might enjoy some GREAT music... ;) MERRY CHRISTMAS.mp4
  17. FWIW: ANYtime you are talking that kind of torque, you will want a 6-point socket (or wrench), as opposed any 12 pt tool... ;) Also; I don't understand why 150 ft-lbs is being used here. For attaching a spare tire? if so, it would seem to me that anything over 30-35 ft-lbs should be more than enough, but perhaps I don't understand or am confused about what piece you are describing, and how this carrier is made.
  18. Just a wish for a Blessed and Happy thanksgiving to the ORP family...
  19. After seeing a facebook post indicating a rather (to me) unusual program about used luggage, I began calling various agencies I thought would be able to provide an answer as to it's validity. After reaching a couple of dead ends, late Friday afternoon, I was referred to a phone number that I was told may be able to help clarify this FB luggage story. When I made the call this morning, I was pleased to learn that there is indeed a used baggage donation program (not well advertised), that accepts donations of luggage which is gently used and clean. These luggage donations are used in support of situations where kids in less than great situations, need luggage (as opposed to carrying their belongings in a plastic garbage bag) for temporary re-housing, such as foster care, kids at risk, etc. SO: If you have gently used luggage that you want to part with, rather than dumping it, or donating to Goodwill (etc.), may I suggest you consider donating to OCJ Kids, (address & contact info is below...) NOTE: They are closed this Thanksgiving week. OJC Kids 21630 N. 9th Ave. Suite 103 Phx, AZ 85027 Hours: M-F 9am - 4pm 602-429-2171
  20. Who amongst us can honestly say that they were NEVER caught getting a scolding from Mom for this very thing... LOL...
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