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Everything posted by ob1jeeper

  1. Same here on being lost on these old deaf ears Jim... & I agree... Sweet install as always... ;)
  2. Just offering a bit of humor too "D"... ;)
  3. Oddly enough ... Automatics have clutch inside them as well... ;)
  4. We are just back from being tour guides to friends from Michigan... Globlin State Park, Hanksville, UT Capitol Reef NP - Torrey, UT Bryce Canyon NP Zion NP Shafer Trail - Moab 7 Mile Rim - Moab Castle Valley - Moab
  5. A light scuffing of the top surface, then a coating (or 2) of white elastomeric roofing paint will help lower interior temps in the summer by a great deal. Worked wonders for Karen's TJL... ;)
  6. Wonderful pics & videos shared of this amazing experience. Looking foirwar4d to getting back there again someday... Thanks for sharing the pics & video's to all... Well Done...
  7. This is an easy to straighten part, with proper knowledge & tools. If you don't have the tools or experience to do this, may I suggest you give Joe @ On-Point a jingle, as I know he has the tools and knowledge to do this quickly, and correctly, at reasonable $'s.
  8. Minimally we will need pics of the damaged part you are speaking about, in order to give useable info/response...
  9. In Spite of not getting all the way through, it appears a good time was had by all. Thanks for sharing the storylines and the pics... 🙂
  10. That sounds like the John Pa we ALL know Big Al... Practical Joker John... LOL...
  11. Welcome... There are TONS of great places to visit in NV, and in CA as well... Enjoy... ;)
  12. Hi Joe, the itinerary you described sounds fun. I did something similar with a buddy from Michigan about 14 years ago. You will LOVE riding the Rockies... ;) Would go with, but we are planning a summer away in the RV... Just don't have room for the scoot to come along also ... Yet... ;)
  13. Plus... In a pinch they can serve as a warmer/heater. ;) I'm not a fan of the LED lamps... Too "cold/impersonal" for my tastes... JMHO - YMMV... ;)
  14. Welcome to the site Ron. Some mighty fine peeps here. I believe you will find so as well... ;)
  15. Ken was certianly a fun guy to have on a trip. the antics between he and Al were always a hoot to witness. Add in John Pa to the mix and they kept us all in stitches. It hasn't been the same since his move, but it was what was best for him and his family... RIP Ken... 😥 Prayers for the family, and friends... 🙏
  16. Cool Beans Kristoffer... & Happy B-Day Sir-"K-Dude"... ;)
  17. Well said Jim, There is not a single large-scale professional car-hauling company that I am aware of, which uses crossed tie downs... Must be at lease one good reason for that... ;)
  18. Kris, Just a clarification... From a compressive strength standpoint, wood is a fine material for a vehicle support, provided (just like steel jack stands) it has a sufficiently wide base to help prevent it from tipping, should side loading be encountered. I have several wood blocks, which I utilize for vehicle support, copied from the ones we used @ work.
  19. Kris, The angled tongue pieces are the removable lateral stabilizers for the main portion of the tongue (the large square tube to which the coupler is welded). The main tube lays fore-aft, and inserts into a similar tube of sufficient size to allow the tongue to be moved fore/aft to alter the length of the tongue. The hidden/large tube is welded into the frame crossmembers under the decking. While only a fraction of trailer's in use, utilize this type of tongue construction, the use of this layout, is intended to both allow for adjustable tongue lengths, as well as to allow total tongue removal for compactness of storage if desired/necessary. Not to mention becoming a pretty effective means to slow thieves down. Perhaps the largest downside to the removal is that the removable tongue piece weighs right at 145-150 lbs, making it a huge chore to do by one's self. Luckily, I had a small tractor with a set of forks to assist when I removed it for painting and length re-adjustment. Hi Jim, As you surmised by the pics, I am indeed a bit of a rookie with trailers and the loading of same... ;)
  20. Loading the TR this morning Tied down for the trip home to Wickenburg, then on to Detroit next month
  21. When I towed this new-to-me trailer home from the sellers house I experienced a few strong gusts of side-wind trying to push the empty trailer around, causing some mild "tail-wiggle". After some measuring and calculations, I found that the trailer tongue was a bit on the short-ish side for a trailer of this size & shape. The good news is that It was designed by the mfg. as an adjustable length tongue which could even be removed if desired for space considerations such as storage, etc.. So, I did as much of a stretch as safe & practical (approx. 10"), as I would have had to make a whole new tongue to go longer. Then I fabbed up some brackets for also adding a friction-type sway stabilizer. The large red bracket you see at the truck hitch is a 20K rated unit mfg.'d by "Shocker Hitch" out of ND. It is a cushioned hitch using an air-inflated spring (which is hidden from view under the hitch receiver), similar to air ride springs for handling larger loads in PU's etc. I have another of their units on another trailer which made it pull SO much smoother (ridding it of the jerkiness so prevalent in larger trailers with stiff tires and suspension, particularly when empty of lightly loaded). I decided to try it for this trailer as well, but instead of buying the unit that welds to the trailer, for this one, I bought the type that simply inserts into the receiver. These things help a bunch in how smoothly it pulls, especially on segmented concrete surfaces, (AKA: most freeways). For the hitch mount, rather than welding it to the shocker hitch, I decided to fab a "dual-mount" that attaches/clamps in place with the hitch ball, in the event I found the need for a 2nd sway control brake, or needed further mods. For the aft end of the anti-sway mount, I simply cut a piece of 1/2" stock and welded it to the right tongue strut, which bolt-clamps to the main portion of the tongue. Tomorrow is a first for me to be towing it with a vehicle inside, as I have a '59 Triumph TR-3 to collect from a storage locker in Peoria, AZ for a friend (Dave L.) from Ontario, Canada. Next month, I'll be taking it as far as Detroit, for him. Dave, was a long-time friend of Mike & Marianne Smith's, and someone I met & knew through Mike & working @ Chrysler. My final act today was to add a few reflective strips for night-time vision improvements... Still-to-Do list: 1- Pulling the hubs for brake, bearing, and seal inspections & buying a few spare bearings and seals to put in the travel kit. 2- finish organizing the stored "stuff" (tools, etc.) 3- Sewing up a set of curtains to further block the sun-light (and prying eyes) for the heavily tinted side windows. 4- Finish touch-up painting to recent mods.
  22. Thanks Jim, The trailer came to me with the compressor bolted down in this location. For now I'm going to leave it, but it will most likely get moved... Thanks Kris
  23. Have been tinkering with the new-to-me trailer getting it set up to suit my needs/tastes. Below are a few items I've been futzing with... In order to enable loading of "dead" vehicles, and for those instances when it's safer to load, I added a receiver to provide for an ATV winch that I've had for many years and used on my other trailers. Not visible is the "loops" that were apart of this trailer, which I elected to use rather than drilling additional holes to mount the receiver. This is the mobile ATV winch I've had for many years and used on my open -car-hauler trailers. It has; both a winch mounted switch and a wireless remote, which makes for safer and simple loading, and quick-connect load wiring. For the load wiring, I modified a set of HD jumper cables with these quick-connects, so I don't have to carry both jumper cables, AND a separate set or a "20-odd ft coil" of load wiring for the trailer winch. It is located at the front of the trailer, to the right and below the "house" battery, and directly below the "house" electrical box, and is attached with no extra holes drilled into the trailer, as it has several "loop" welded to multiple locations already available. You can just glimpse on of the loops peeking out from behind the receiver mount plate. I recently replaced the original steel winch line with synthetic. The house battery was DOA when I got the trailer, whose battery mount was sized specifically for it. Since I had on-hand a spare RV battery of a slightly larger size, rather than purchasing a new battery, I welded up an adapter that allows the new battery to sit directly on top of the original battery bracket. It is shown sitting statically in place, but a proper tie-down is in the works. When it fails, it will be replaced with sealed AGM marine battery. Pic of the interior front-end. The large dark panel, is a folding workbench top that folds up and latches out of the way for travel and ease of loading the heavier objects (such as the generators, which are not yet secured for travel), but I'm futzing with that as well... ;) Pic looking towards the rear/right side interior. And left side of the trailer. The air compressor and the two 4ft lighting units are 120VAC, while the other lights are 12VDC, using the "house" battery. It has more storage overhead than I believe I will ever need, but it was equipped like this when I bought it.
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