ob1jeeper

We'll see how it holds up compared to the JJ. However, upon a test drive - I STILL HAVE THE DAMN SHIMMY. In all, I've replaced every fastener in the entire front end, retorqued every jam nut, adjusted caster to 6 degrees, replaced a tired trackbar end joint, reinforced the steering box, brand new Teraflex ball joints, and replaced all of my tires. @theksmith suggested that it could be my toe, which I'll adjust next. If that doesn't do it, I'm planning to look at rebalancing my tires and possibly replacing my steering stabilizer. Ryan, On the subject of "shimmy" / "death-wobble" / or whatever you want to call it... The engineering name for this phenomenon, is known as "Axle Tramp". (* 1) Axle tramp is defined as a cyclic movement of alternating wheel/tire assembly's, in which they alternately move vertically, in which while one tire is on a downward path, the opposite is on an upward path. When the wheel/tire combination used, has a kingpin inclination angle which is not closely centered in the tire contact patch, it creates a scrub radius that results in additive degrees of steered components cycling left-to-right, in time with the tramp, which then is manifested as the rapid & cyclic movement in the steering system that is manifested by the steering wheel rotating L-to-R, in sync with this L-to-R cycling of the steered tire/wheels. As information and explanation: ALL vehicles with "live" steered axles (IE: solid front axles), from school busses, to Jeeps, to Class 8 trucks, and everything in between, have the propensity for axle tramp inherent in the design. In the "Old Days" (when many live steered axles used kingpins, as opposed to todays driven live front axles with open knuckle designs using ball joints), axle tramp was held in check by adding hysteresis to the steered joints. Many accomplished this by compressing the rotating joint (kingpin joints) so that it the internal friction of the joints damped the tendency to "shimmy/death-wobble/axle tramp"... IE: added hysteresis to these pivots to dampen. (* 2) Additionally, in the "old days" most vehicles with live (solid) steered axles utilized multiple leaf spring suspensions. The internal friction between these multiple leaves added hysteresis to the system that helped counteract the tendency to tramp, in addition to that hysteresis accomplished through the kingpins. SO... In today's modern systems utilizing coil springs (where there is NO available hysteresis to help combat Tramp, adding more high-speed damping through the uses of properly tuned shock absorbers to help control tramp could be beneficial. These days with ball joints being used, which have almost NO internal hysteresis, there is no easy, nor reliable, means of adding hysteresis for dampening other than the use of a steering damper sized to handle the side of the components in play, to dampen this motion. Since you are running larger tire/wheel combinations, which I would bet uses wheel offsets that changes the offset of the tire, which in turn changes the scrub radius, (the point where the kingpin inclination angle intersects with the road surface) you are going to need either A- multiple dampers OR .. B- one sized to handle the increased need for dampening due to the alterations you've made to your vehicle... I said all that to say this... Do yourself a favor and replace the steering damper with either a larger capacity unit, or a dual damper set up... ;) Steve. Thought I would toss in a bit of info that I failed to mention before, thinking that level of detail might cause some confusion... But in hindsight, I felt it germain to this topic and worthy of being included...... Added info is in bold lettering

'C-mon Snoopy... This is an EASY question... It's ALL of the above... ;)

Welcome... ;)

Same here on being lost on these old deaf ears Jim... & I agree... Sweet install as always... ;)

Just offering a bit of humor too "D"... ;)

Oddly enough ... Automatics have clutch inside them as well... ;)

We are just back from being tour guides to friends from Michigan... Globlin State Park, Hanksville, UT Capitol Reef NP - Torrey, UT Bryce Canyon NP Zion NP Shafer Trail - Moab 7 Mile Rim - Moab Castle Valley - Moab

A light scuffing of the top surface, then a coating (or 2) of white elastomeric roofing paint will help lower interior temps in the summer by a great deal. Worked wonders for Karen's TJL... ;)

Wonderful pics & videos shared of this amazing experience. Looking foirwar4d to getting back there again someday... Thanks for sharing the pics & video's to all... Well Done...

This is an easy to straighten part, with proper knowledge & tools. If you don't have the tools or experience to do this, may I suggest you give Joe @ On-Point a jingle, as I know he has the tools and knowledge to do this quickly, and correctly, at reasonable $'s.

Minimally we will need pics of the damaged part you are speaking about, in order to give useable info/response...

In Spite of not getting all the way through, it appears a good time was had by all. Thanks for sharing the storylines and the pics... 🙂

That sounds like the John Pa we ALL know Big Al... Practical Joker John... LOL...

Welcome... There are TONS of great places to visit in NV, and in CA as well... Enjoy... ;)

Hi Joe, the itinerary you described sounds fun. I did something similar with a buddy from Michigan about 14 years ago. You will LOVE riding the Rockies... ;) Would go with, but we are planning a summer away in the RV... Just don't have room for the scoot to come along also ... Yet... ;)

Plus... In a pinch they can serve as a warmer/heater. ;) I'm not a fan of the LED lamps... Too "cold/impersonal" for my tastes... JMHO - YMMV... ;)

Welcome to the site Ron. Some mighty fine peeps here. I believe you will find so as well... ;)

Ken was certianly a fun guy to have on a trip. the antics between he and Al were always a hoot to witness. Add in John Pa to the mix and they kept us all in stitches. It hasn't been the same since his move, but it was what was best for him and his family... RIP Ken... 😥 Prayers for the family, and friends... 🙏

HBD Sire "K-Dude"... ;)

Cool Beans Kristoffer... & Happy B-Day Sir-"K-Dude"... ;)

Well said Jim, There is not a single large-scale professional car-hauling company that I am aware of, which uses crossed tie downs... Must be at least one good reason for that... ;)

Kris, Just a clarification... From a compressive strength standpoint, wood is a fine material for a vehicle support, provided (just like steel jack stands) it has a sufficiently wide base to help prevent it from tipping, should side loading be encountered. I have several wood blocks, which I utilize for vehicle support, copied from the ones we used @ work.

Kris, The angled tongue pieces are the removable lateral stabilizers for the main portion of the tongue (the large square tube to which the coupler is welded). The main tube lays fore-aft, and inserts into a similar tube of sufficient size to allow the tongue to be moved fore/aft to alter the length of the tongue. The hidden/large tube is welded into the frame crossmembers under the decking. While only a fraction of trailer's in use, utilize this type of tongue construction, the use of this layout, is intended to both allow for adjustable tongue lengths, as well as to allow total tongue removal for compactness of storage if desired/necessary. Not to mention becoming a pretty effective means to slow thieves down. Perhaps the largest downside to the removal is that the removable tongue piece weighs right at 145-150 lbs, making it a huge chore to do by one's self. Luckily, I had a small tractor with a set of forks to assist when I removed it for painting and length re-adjustment. Hi Jim, As you surmised by the pics, I am indeed a bit of a rookie with trailers and the loading of same... ;)

Loading the TR this morning Tied down for the trip home to Wickenburg, then on to Detroit next month

When I towed this new-to-me trailer home from the sellers house I experienced a few strong gusts of side-wind trying to push the empty trailer around, causing some mild "tail-wiggle". After some measuring and calculations, I found that the trailer tongue was a bit on the short-ish side for a trailer of this size & shape. The good news is that It was designed by the mfg. as an adjustable length tongue which could even be removed if desired for space considerations such as storage, etc.. So, I did as much of a stretch as safe & practical (approx. 10"), as I would have had to make a whole new tongue to go longer. Then I fabbed up some brackets for also adding a friction-type sway stabilizer. The large red bracket you see at the truck hitch is a 20K rated unit mfg.'d by "Shocker Hitch" out of ND. It is a cushioned hitch using an air-inflated spring (which is hidden from view under the hitch receiver), similar to air ride springs for handling larger loads in PU's etc. I have another of their units on another trailer which made it pull SO much smoother (ridding it of the jerkiness so prevalent in larger trailers with stiff tires and suspension, particularly when empty of lightly loaded). I decided to try it for this trailer as well, but instead of buying the unit that welds to the trailer, for this one, I bought the type that simply inserts into the receiver. These things help a bunch in how smoothly it pulls, especially on segmented concrete surfaces, (AKA: most freeways). For the hitch mount, rather than welding it to the shocker hitch, I decided to fab a "dual-mount" that attaches/clamps in place with the hitch ball, in the event I found the need for a 2nd sway control brake, or needed further mods. For the aft end of the anti-sway mount, I simply cut a piece of 1/2" stock and welded it to the right tongue strut, which bolt-clamps to the main portion of the tongue. Tomorrow is a first for me to be towing it with a vehicle inside, as I have a '59 Triumph TR-3 to collect from a storage locker in Peoria, AZ for a friend (Dave L.) from Ontario, Canada. Next month, I'll be taking it as far as Detroit, for him. Dave, was a long-time friend of Mike & Marianne Smith's, and someone I met & knew through Mike & working @ Chrysler. My final act today was to add a few reflective strips for night-time vision improvements... Still-to-Do list: 1- Pulling the hubs for brake, bearing, and seal inspections & buying a few spare bearings and seals to put in the travel kit. 2- finish organizing the stored "stuff" (tools, etc.) 3- Sewing up a set of curtains to further block the sun-light (and prying eyes) for the heavily tinted side windows. 4- Finish touch-up painting to recent mods.