dzJeepChic 2,897 Posted November 16, 2014 Still stuck at 4 wheeler supply getting the rubicon transfer case swap.. Apparently one of their mechanics went home 10 minutes into his shift yesterday with internal bleeding issues:eek: Well that's no bueno. I hope the guy (holy cow, which guy? Not that old guy I hope?) is okay. Keeping positive thinking about the whole 4Wheeler's Supply crew. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottL 185 Posted November 20, 2014 Well that's no bueno. I hope the guy (holy cow, which guy? Not that old guy I hope?) is okay. Keeping positive thinking about the whole 4Wheeler's Supply crew. It wasn't the "old guy", not the transfer case guru anyway. Finally got my jeep back last night and (drum roll) so far so good. Speedometer works correctly and the "part time" indicator light comes on as it should. Turns out the pigtail i bought from Amazon for the part time light wasn't necessary so if anyone else plans to do this swap i have an extra one for sale un-opened: Driving home on AZ51 i was able to get 'er up to 80mph without vibrations other than the slight sound of mud terrains humming. I think overall the decrease in interior noise/vibrations is also due to the Warn locking hubs George and i installed last month. Never showed pictures of that but here are two: 1 right after we buttoned it up and another stopped during the test drive to get George tools from a garage sale. I like how the front wheels stick out roughly 1.5 to 2 inches wider now than before If i remember correctly, George bought an air saw at the garage sale Here's the new NV241OR sourced off e-bay for $1,400 delivered. The transfer case had 52,000 miles on it before replacing my NP231 Dudes at 4 wheeler's had to notch my transmission mount to keep it from contacting the larger case One thing i noticed right away is how much higher the 241 is tucked up away from the transfer case skid compared to the older 231 I'm going to clean the crap out of the t-case and tunnel this weekend when i get some time. Just need to do a trail test now to make sure it works right offroad. Who's in?! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
91AzXJ 2 Posted November 21, 2014 I wonder if you'll gain MPG from the lockouts? Should help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottL 185 Posted April 2, 2015 During mOOse's bday party I realized my air lockers no longer would actuate. The compressor worked fine, I was able to air up at the end of the day no problem, but it kept running whenever I would try to switch on either locker. Upon further inspection I found air leaking from the tire inflation hose coupling. Took it apart & found a spring broken in half from water corrosion & sand had jammed the plunger/valve open Removed the coupling & cleaned out all the sand & goop from the manifold threads Called 4 wheel parts, the California store had an extra ARB hose coupler p/n 171402 for $13, 2 day shipped to my house for $7 Applied some teflon tape to the threads and buttoned it back up. Lockers work perfectly once again I stole this rubber cap from George's garage that fits perfectly over the coupling. Hopefully this will keep future rust & corrosion at bay Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottL 185 Posted April 10, 2015 I wonder if you'll gain MPG from the lockouts? Should help! After driving around town for the past 6 months & hitting a few trails in the process, I haven't noticed any improved gas mileage. Not sure if i'm set on the wider front axle look. Now it's at least 2.5" wider than the rear axle. Considering a pair of these wheel spacers: http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/Wheel-Spacers.aspx?t_c=11&t_s=107&t_pt=7576&t_pn=SPIWHS-002&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=CPOerKX168QCFQoKaQodOj0ADQ The concern is my tires might eat into the fenders on "full stuff". They just barely tuck as it is now: Also found these extended bumpstops from Daystar that could alleviate would-be up travel issues http://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=369 I know Discount tire will not touch my jeep when it's time for new tires due to wheel spacers thicker than 3mm but i see many others on this forum running them. What do you all think, should i get wheel spacers:confused: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ob1jeeper 849 Posted April 11, 2015 I doubt that you will ever be able to measure any increases in fuel economy due to the addition of lockout hubs. While science says that any reduction in friction losses are an improvement, the fact is that the losses of turning a few extra seals is but a pittance and pales to be unmeasureable compared to the losses caused by aerodynamics, tire tread design, tire pressure, etc. etc. etc… As for the wider front than rear track width. The rear being narrower than the front, particularly on solid axle equipped vehicles, is purposely done. Appearance is not on the radar when this choice is made. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottL 185 Posted April 13, 2015 As for the wider front than rear track width. The rear being narrower than the front, particularly on solid axle equipped vehicles, is purposely done. Appearance is not on the radar when this choice is made. Both axles appeared to be equal width before we put the Warn hubs on but i never actually measured the difference until last weekend. Interesting, I wonder what the overall purpose is to having wider axles up front than in the rear:confused: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 5,778 Posted April 13, 2015 i think he was saying when you decided to do lockout hubs, you picked function over form, so deal with the look! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lofreqjeff 99 Posted April 14, 2015 I've have 2.5" spacers on my rear axle for a few years now and Discount doesn't give me any grief over them. The manager at the Chandler & Dobson location told me that as long as the spacers are hub-centric there is no issue - its the float type they won't work on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottL 185 Posted April 14, 2015 The manager at the Chandler & Dobson location told me that as long as the spacers are hub-centric there is no issue - its the float type they won't work on. Thanks Jeff, that makes sense. Definitely have the "float type" on my Ford. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
